Wednesday, 9 January 2013

Context of Practise: Lecture Notes- "Fashion as Photograph"

Wednesday 9th January 2013
"Fashion As Photograph (The Body in Fashion Photography)" Lecture Notes
Helen Clarke

Some fashion photography is solely based about showing the product
- Catalogue/ Product Photography
- Ghost Mannequinn illustrates the garments

First photograph- "View From The Window at the Gare"

Need to become reproducable
- William Henry Fox Talbot invented fixing agent
- Longer exposure times
- Calotype uses Silver Nitrate- shows destruction of the negatives
- Allowed for photography to be available to the masses

Adolphe Brown (1856) photographs Countess di Casliglione
- Theatrical Poses
- She acts as the Director
- Suggestive Emphasis
- Re- Acts several events in her life
- Fragmented Body (Pushing the Bounderies)

Age of the Fashion Magazines
- Improvements in the halftone printing (dot)

Paul Poiret (1879- 1944)
- Revolutionary for Woman
- Freedom of Corsetry

Adolf de Mayer (1920's)
- Pictorialist Approach
- Model Posing (Acting as a Character)
- Natural Elements add to the Romantic Theme that was popular at the time

Martin Munkacsi (1930's)
- Technical Capacity of the Camera
- Active pose- Sporting image due to Movement

Edward Steichen
- Use of Dramatic Abstract Shapes (Sculptural)
- Lighting & Exposure of Light (Very Specific)
- Sharp Focus & Geometry
- Images reflect Modernism in General Life

La Mode Practique (1938)- 1st Fashion Photo Cover

Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar:

- Hoyningen- Heune- Sense of Movement, Flow & Fluidity
                               - Dream/ Angel- like feel
                               - Unattainable, Mythical Beauty

- Horst P Horst- Salvador Dali "Dream of Venus"
                        - Using the Camera to explore Fantasy

- Cecil Beaton- Social Status Photography
                      - Decedant Events & Documenting the Bohemian time
                      - Putting a star out of ther spotlight
                      - Spotlighting creates Dramatic Shadow
                      - Environment is reflectine of the wealth and opulance

- Lee Miller- Crosses the bounderies between model and photographer
                  - Involved in alot of Surrealism
                  - Documentary photographer

- Louise Dahl Wolfe- Taking the model from the Studio set
                               - Sculpture reflected in work
                               - Style model based on the Scultpure in photo- Eyes drawn to it as the main focus
                               - Doubling Up (Reflection)- Figure in Foreground and Background


Photographs & Pop Culture (1960's)
- David Bailey- Mick Jagger
- Terrence Donovan- Spy Drama (1962)- Plays on the Heroic story
- Brain Duffy- Models became the girl-next-door
                    - More Accessible
                    - Sexual Liberation
                    - Barrier of the Shop Window
                    - Awareness between model and photographer
- Richard Avelon- Emotionless Static pose
                          - Tina Turner- Inbetween moment makes relatable realness (Interacting)
                          - In The American West (1985)- Studio setting making the unknown person into a
                                                                             glamourous model

Objectification of the Female Body
- Helmut Newton- Inclusion of the Photographer
- Guy Bourdin- Fragmentation of the body influenced by Surrealism

Street Photography
-Jamel Shabazz- Hipn Hop Scene with Real Street Fashion
- iD Magazine & The Face Magazine- Real People
                                                        - Pre-Photoshop- Leaning towards Reality
                                                        - Heroism in Warts-and-All imagery
- Juergon Teller- Bare & Untouched
                        - Fashion that looks like a documentary
- Corrine Day- "Waif Look"

Adobe Photoshop (2003)
- The End of Gritty Realism
- The Potential of the Idelised Body
                     - Terry Richardson- Working with the Hyperbody
                     - Nick Knight- Futuristic and Architectural (Stepped over the lines of Reality)

                                                           
Fashion Blogging
-Emergence of Street Photography (Low Fi Quality Images)
- Anyone can write- Documenting the Personal Side of Fashion

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